Two Pubs, One Celt

New menus at Shenanigan's and Paddy Reilly

‘Sup Substackers, today I’ve got some food reviews for you. A good buddy of mine runs two Irish pubs that are happily walking distance from my house. One is Shenanigan’s, on the corner of Surawong and Patpong 1 in Silom. The other is Paddy Reilly, on Sathorn Soi 12. This wild Irishman has started adding some crazy dishes to the menus of both joints, and the result is a foodie fusion fanatic’s dream. What follows is my reaction to five new additions that are nothing short of revolutionary. Let’s dig in, starting with Shenanigan’s…

Krapow pie

Every Brit and Irishman loves a meat pie. It took me a year of living in Essex to learn to eat them, and to be honest, I’ve always found them rather bland. And getting pub owners to be adventurous with pies is like pulling teeth. The closest we’ve had here in BKK to an out-of-the-box pie is steak n’ Guinness pie, which is on offer in a few places around town. But Shenanigan’s (and Paddy) is changing the game, namely with a Thai-Irish (Thairish for short) fusion krapow pie. This thing is an ass-kicker. Somehow, the chef was able to marry the sweet-savory-spice of krapow with the sumptuous comfort-food feel of a pie. It made my imagination ping-pong back and forth from Bangkok to Killarney. It comes with a cup of gravy, truffle mash, and peas, and every bite from start to finish is pure glee.

Meatloaf

The other awesome dish I was privileged to gobble down is their new meatloaf. Here’s the story behind it: after The Steakhouse Co. closed, ending the two best culinary years of my life in Thailand, one of their chefs moved over to Shenanigan’s. One of his favorite menu items back at the Steakhouse was the meatloaf, and he tugged at the owner’s shirt sleeve for years trying to get it onto Shenanigan’s menu. Finally, the boss relented, and what materialized was a US-Thai fusion version that is positively excellent. They took a traditional meatloaf, added cheese, and substituted ketchup for Sriracha sauce. The result is a rich, meaty, cheesy, tangy-spicy concoction that massages one’s synapses like an exotic masseuse. Tack on some mash, and (in my opinion) the best creamy coleslaw in Bangkok, and you’ve got a meal that is unequalled in this town. To say I love the meatloaf is an understatement.

Moving on to Paddy Reilly, I must admit I haven’t made a dent in the vast, eccentric menu at Paddy’s, but I can testify to a few recently-added dishes…

Brisket and jalapeno pie

How and where the bossman got the idea for this pie, I can only speculate. Maybe it was a fever dream. Whatever the source, it was divinely-inspired. This bad boy is a thunderbolt of astounding deliciousness. The brisket is excellent, and combined with gooey cheese and the heat of the peppers is a magical combination. Each bite tried to trick my brain, which kept flipping back and forth—Texas-Galway, Texas-Galway, Texas, Galway. The side of mash was superb, and although I usually leave the peas on my plate like a sensible yank, I actually polished them off as well. They acted as a kind of mild dampener for the lingering heat of the jalapenos.

Definitely pair it with something sweet and acidic. I recommend a Magner’s, because with those jalapenos, you’re going to be glad for the ice in the glass.

Yorkshire pudding cheeseburger

This thing is as wacky as it sounds. Full disclosure, I’m not a huge fan of Yorkshire pudding. I always leave it for last when putting away a roast, typically never have room for it, and don’t shed a tear. But a pudding cheeseburger was just too eclectic to pass up. After allowing it to cool, I took a big, cheesy, juicy bite, and wasn’t prepared for how rich it came across. I was overloaded by the heaviness, despite the deceptive lightness of the puddin’. As for flavor, it doesn’t pack much. Just pudding, beef, mild cheese. So I put a drop of HP sauce on a bite and suddenly I could’ve been gnawing on a burger in O’Neill’s on the high street back in Colchester. It comes with a side of poutine that pairs with the burger like a hand in a glove. Plus peas, but as I’ve said, I typically forego those.

Of the four new plates, the meatloaf and brisket pie tied for my favorite. A close second is the krapow pie. And despite my distaste for pudding, I came away fully satisfied, especially with the poutine thrown in. That’s the breakdown. Check back in a few days for a head-to-head comparison of the steak and eggs at Paddy and Mickey’s Diner. Until then, I say pick up a fork and get to it.

For redlight-related fodder, check out bangkokseven.com